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T O P I C R E V I E WdwagerI am hoping members with more experience can help me. I have an 8x12 flown Apollo 16 flag I would like to frame. What is the best way to do this? I don't want to do anything to the flag to attach it to a backing, but I'm thinking the only option is to have it pressed as close to the glass as possible to keep it from sagging over time. Does anyone have any advice?Rick MulheirnI can't vouch for others but when I had a flown UK flag framed, it was stitched at each corner with a single stitch that is almost invisible to the naked eye. Polyester corners and the flag will likely sag. Any kind of adhesive will likely discolour the flag over time.SkyMan1958Depending on how much you want to spend, if you live in a fairly large urban area — NYC, Miami, Denver, LA etc. — you might call a major local museum and ask for their conservation department. I live in the San Francisco Bay Area, and called the De Young museum years ago when an STS-1 flag and patch presentation to Deke Slayton that I owned was starting to become unglued. I asked their conservation department what they would do, and the department gave me the names of several local fabric conservators that they recommended. The conservator I picked detached the flag and patch presentation(s) from the cheap background mat they had been glued to, and then mounted them to a new archival mat using a Japanese floating paste technique that has been around for hundreds of years, is archival, and works just great. I then framed the end result. Larry McGlynnI have used both methods to mount flags with good results. I would go with either mounting option too. I have also had encased objects such as flags, maps or charts in Mylar pouches so no adhesive touches the item. Just remember to leave the top edge of the Mylar pouch open to let air circulate. If the flag is on a NASA presentation (especially an Apollo era presentation), then I would leave it alone even if the double sided tape they used bled through onto the flag. Better to leave as is at that point. rgarnerRegarding tape mounting, provided it is double-sided archival tape, it won't discolor. With that said, one must be careful when removing the flag as not to damage it. Otherwise, you can get clear stitching in the corners as suggested above.MartinAirIt's always tricky to frame precious, vintage items. What about a shadow box? I'd probably put the flag in an archival mylar sleeve and attach it in a shadow box (with other mission mementos/artifacts), for an easy access - just in case. SpaceAholic quote:Originally posted by Larry McGlynn:Better to leave as is at that point. Concur. The flags themselves are easily duplicated/forged - difficult to understand why a collector would assume risk purchasing a reframed flag disassociated from original provenance.mf451My number one piece of advice is to consult a professional conservator; it is not the cheapest method but there is a reason people make a profession out of this field. For high value items, it is well worth it. The American Institute of Conservators has a lookup tool that is a good first step to finding someone.The reason I make this suggestion is because there are many factors to consider, all of which play off of each other. For instance, the suggestion to use a single, careful stitch could be a good one, but you must also be very careful about what backing material the flag is resting on. If you stitch it to a low grade board, whatever is in that board may leech into the flag over time and discolor or damage it. Similar principals apply with certain tapes; even if the tape is very high grade, if it is mounted to or in contact with the wrong material, you can damage over time. And that is even assuming you know specifically what kind of tape is best for this use; I am very leery of things that are generically called "archival"; you really need to understand the chemical properties of the adhesives, the backing material(s), and the object itself, to make a proper decision. And there are different adhesives, tapes, etc, for different purposes and materials. For example, just look at the variety of products listed here under Adhesives and Fasteners at this art conservation supply store.That being said, if you do not want to consult a professional, my quick and dirty rules of thumb are: (1) do not have it contact with the glass; the pressure is going to cause all kinds of problems, including speeding up the transfer of anything fugitive from the backing board into the artifact, and (2) the safest material to have in direct contact with your flag is mylar; it is inert. Even for storage, I would keep it in mylar.A suggestion on mylar: I would strongly recommend a mylar L-velope (open on two sides) (example here) rather than an envelope (open on one side). A mylar envelope (open on one side) will be challenging to fit your large flag into without wrinkling it. The L-velope, especially if you get a thicker gauge mylar, will hold its shape, and the object, very well and be much easier to insert/extract the artifact. The TALAS L-velope I linked to above uses a thicker mylar (4 mil) than many competitors, which I much prefer.But, again, in returning to my first point, even if you put the flag in mylar, and then mount the mylar, you may still need to consider off-gassing of other materials contained within the frame or shadowbox, hence the value of a professional here. Now, is that consideration overkill relative to the value of the object? Only you can make that assessment. dwagerOh, wow - thanks for all of the ideas and advice! What a trove of insight. Will post a photo when done. Very grateful for the kindness I see displayed so often on collectSPACE.dwagerDidn't mention that the idea of putting it in mylar in a shadow box and making a 3D display of it all sounds like fun and allows me to remove the flag for re-sale if ever necessary. Will look into the possibility of off-gassing (wow - wouldn't have thought of that).Many thanks again to all of you...
I don't want to do anything to the flag to attach it to a backing, but I'm thinking the only option is to have it pressed as close to the glass as possible to keep it from sagging over time. Does anyone have any advice?
Polyester corners and the flag will likely sag. Any kind of adhesive will likely discolour the flag over time.
I live in the San Francisco Bay Area, and called the De Young museum years ago when an STS-1 flag and patch presentation to Deke Slayton that I owned was starting to become unglued. I asked their conservation department what they would do, and the department gave me the names of several local fabric conservators that they recommended.
The conservator I picked detached the flag and patch presentation(s) from the cheap background mat they had been glued to, and then mounted them to a new archival mat using a Japanese floating paste technique that has been around for hundreds of years, is archival, and works just great. I then framed the end result.
I have also had encased objects such as flags, maps or charts in Mylar pouches so no adhesive touches the item. Just remember to leave the top edge of the Mylar pouch open to let air circulate.
If the flag is on a NASA presentation (especially an Apollo era presentation), then I would leave it alone even if the double sided tape they used bled through onto the flag. Better to leave as is at that point.
quote:Originally posted by Larry McGlynn:Better to leave as is at that point.
The reason I make this suggestion is because there are many factors to consider, all of which play off of each other. For instance, the suggestion to use a single, careful stitch could be a good one, but you must also be very careful about what backing material the flag is resting on. If you stitch it to a low grade board, whatever is in that board may leech into the flag over time and discolor or damage it.
Similar principals apply with certain tapes; even if the tape is very high grade, if it is mounted to or in contact with the wrong material, you can damage over time. And that is even assuming you know specifically what kind of tape is best for this use; I am very leery of things that are generically called "archival"; you really need to understand the chemical properties of the adhesives, the backing material(s), and the object itself, to make a proper decision. And there are different adhesives, tapes, etc, for different purposes and materials. For example, just look at the variety of products listed here under Adhesives and Fasteners at this art conservation supply store.
That being said, if you do not want to consult a professional, my quick and dirty rules of thumb are: (1) do not have it contact with the glass; the pressure is going to cause all kinds of problems, including speeding up the transfer of anything fugitive from the backing board into the artifact, and (2) the safest material to have in direct contact with your flag is mylar; it is inert. Even for storage, I would keep it in mylar.
A suggestion on mylar: I would strongly recommend a mylar L-velope (open on two sides) (example here) rather than an envelope (open on one side). A mylar envelope (open on one side) will be challenging to fit your large flag into without wrinkling it. The L-velope, especially if you get a thicker gauge mylar, will hold its shape, and the object, very well and be much easier to insert/extract the artifact. The TALAS L-velope I linked to above uses a thicker mylar (4 mil) than many competitors, which I much prefer.
But, again, in returning to my first point, even if you put the flag in mylar, and then mount the mylar, you may still need to consider off-gassing of other materials contained within the frame or shadowbox, hence the value of a professional here. Now, is that consideration overkill relative to the value of the object? Only you can make that assessment.
Will post a photo when done. Very grateful for the kindness I see displayed so often on collectSPACE.
Many thanks again to all of you...
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